I've visited enough places around the world to understand the distinction between simply appreciating the visit and feeling an affinity for the place and life it presents. As Nora told me this morning, I "took to Venice like a duck." What?? Well, I understood the rest without her finishing.My visit here has provided Nora with some company and some amusement. As I've noted before, she is fond of testing me, and the longer I've been here, the harder the tests have become. First, it was whether the second elevator door to her apartment slid or was pushed (pushed). Or how to pay for two spritzes or beers ("Due spritz, per piacere.") Then it became whether I recognized a place, usually a campo. Or which way the vaporetto or motoscafo needed to point for us to reach our destination. Now, she is amused by the way I occasionally know which way to turn, or that I know which stop to get off at. One recent test that I didn't think was so hard was whether I could read "gelateria" backwards through the awning we were sitting under.
She is especially amused when I mumble, "Sporchi turisti," as I plod my way through the tourists stopping to take pictures through shop windows or clogging up a bridge. Okay, so I was stopping on bridges a week ago to take pictures. I, however, would always move thoughtfully aside to allow traffic to continue. Mostly, I enjoy saying the phrase because it forces me to practice my "R's," which Nora says I'm much better at now.
She is pleased that I have come to love a spritz each day between 6 and 8 p.m., and today she introduced me to another Venetian dish, creamed cod, or baccala mantecato. We had it at our other favorite enoteca, Timon, as we enjoyed a midday glass of prosecco. It is surprisingly fluffy, and sat atop a piece of bread. One small piece was just enough, and although I told her it was "fisherrific," it was not very fishy, and I enjoyed it very much.
I also amuse Nora when I eat or drink. Apparently, I say "mmmmmmm" a lot. When I'm drinking a spritz. Or when I'm eating gorgonzola with mascarpone. Or as I devour my grilled fish lunch in the shade on Murano. I also tend to say, "Ah, life is good!"
I don't know if I feel as if I could live here solely because of the city, or because my best friend lives here. Probably because of both. I do know that Venice is a city that requires some time and attention, that while the wide views are spectacular
sometimes you need a little perspective, and someone who really knows the city, to help you really appreciate the details.
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