Friday, July 11, 2008

Mmmmmm . . . deep fried anchovies and horse meat . . .

Today was a full day of excitement of various kinds. First, we overslept a bit but still managed to visit the fish market and bemoan the fact that we couldn't buy any fish since we weren't returning home for hours.
The fruit and vegetable market is right next to the fish market.
And the horse meat shop is just down the street.
Next, we stopped at a rosticceria for a mozarella in carrozza, which is mozarella and anchovies between two slices of bread that is egged and then deep fried. Mmmmmm. Cheesy deep-fried anchovies . . . It was really good, and we ate that on the way to visit Nora's mother, who now lives in a beautiful and old building facing the lagoon.

After this we went to an exhibit on paper that is at the Palazzo Fortuny.
Isabelle de Borchgrave

First the Palazzo Fortuny is a beautiful space for an exhibit--huge, dark, ancient. The exhibit is apparently perfect for the space since Isabelle de Borchgrave is a Belgian artist who creates clothing out of paper, and the Mariano Fortuny was an artist/designer who, among other things, worked with paper and clothing design. He also, apparently, worked in theater lighting design.

De Borchgrave's creations were exhibited beautifully in the palace: dressmaker's dummies displayed the paper clothing throughout the space and ranged from colorful kimonos to elegant evening dresses with paper shawls so thin we couldn't believe they weren't silk.

De Borchgrave's pieces were displayed among some of Fortuny's creations and collections. As Nora and I noted, although the pieces themselves were incredible, their presentation made the exhibit even more amazing.

After the exhibit, sweaty and a little tired from what we call the "museum shuffle," we returned to the gelateria at the Campo San Stefano where Nora had a coffee granita, and I had a prosecco. Unfortunately, she forgot to say that she didn't want sugar, so her ice coffee arrived too sweet for her (and my) taste. I was quite pleased with my prosecco, and we enjoyed watching the sparrows dive-bombing the table and then hopping around stealing potato chips.

At the gelateria at Campo San Stefano
Nora (gently waving a chip at the sparrows hopefully hovering nearby): Okay. Let's feed you.
Me: I bet the waiters love when the customers feed the sparrows.
Nora: It's all right.
Me (as a sparrow wrestles a chip his size from the bowl): Look at this one. He's got some leg issue. He seems unsteady.
Nora: Yes. Look. His left leg is atrophied.
Me: Yup. And it's not very healthy if they just live on chips.
Nora (as she encourages the bird to eat another chip): Probably not. He'll die soon.
Me (laughing, but vaguely ashamed)
Nora: At least he's getting some nourishment first.
(She takes a chip from the bowl and pops it in her mouth.)
Me: Ewww. You're eating from the bowl now?
Nora: It's from the other side.

Once we had rested, we headed back, Nora patiently waiting as I looked for gifts for some special people. Since I've been here, I've been considering the gifts I will return with, and today, I finally bought some. I enjoyed the shopping, and I'm pleased with my purchases. I hope the recipients are pleased as well!

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